Textile waste is usually linked to discarded clothing and landfill sites. However, new research shows that the largest material losses happen much earlier in the production process. Researchers from NTNU and SINTEF in Norway found that around 44 per cent of textile material is lost before a garment even reaches consumers.

The findings highlight an overlooked issue within the fashion and textile industry. While many circular initiatives focus on collecting and recycling used clothing, large amounts of material are already wasted during manufacturing. For fashion designers and textile producers, the study underlines the importance of improving efficiency at the production stage.

Major Losses During Textile Production

The researchers studied the lifecycle of a cotton T-shirt produced in Bangladesh and later used and discarded in Norway. They combined material flow analysis with lifecycle assessment methods to examine how fibres move through two product lifecycles.

The results show that most material losses occur during spinning, textile processing and garment manufacturing. Because of these losses, only a small percentage of the original fibres remain available for future reuse. According to the study, current recycling systems allow a maximum of only 17 per cent of fibres from a T-shirt to become part of a new garment. On a global level, less than 1 per cent of used clothing is recycled back into new textiles.

Circularity Must Start Earlier in the Value Chain

The research suggests that circular textile strategies should focus more strongly on manufacturing processes. Improving yarn production, reducing cutting waste and recovering fibres during production could significantly lower environmental impacts.

The researchers estimate that improved manufacturing methods could increase recyclable fibre recovery from 17 per cent to 44 per cent. They also found that greenhouse gas emissions could fall by around 10 per cent. Other impacts, including water consumption, freshwater pollution and land use, could decrease by 20 to 25 per cent.

These findings are particularly relevant as the European Union introduces stricter regulations for textile waste collection and recycling. According to the researchers, collection systems alone will not solve the industry’s resource challenges.

Designing for Material Efficiency

For fashion and textile designers, the study highlights the need to prioritise material efficiency from the earliest design stages. Designing garments with reduced waste, simplified material compositions and improved recyclability could help support more circular textile systems.

The researchers also stress that governments, manufacturers and brands must work together to reduce waste across the entire supply chain, from raw fibre production to finished garments.

As the fashion industry faces growing pressure to reduce emissions and material consumption, the study identifies manufacturing efficiency as one of the sector’s most immediate opportunities for improvement.

Source: Norwegian SciTech News
Photo: cottonbro studio